On a cold winter day, while skiing my friend Marco showed me the climbing routes on the dam. When I leant out from above I shivered not because of the cold but at seeing the exposure of the routes. I had to look away from that. My first thought was: "it's sheer madness" and soon after I decided "I must be climbing there".
The following summer I climbed the dam. It's strange but once there that feeling of emptyness and loss ....is much deeper! Never in my life have I checked my equipment, never have I followed so carefully the procedure of being roped. I am used to being exposed while climbing, I like that but even so it was an unforgettable feeling. It was so different: handholds are artificial, stuck in the concrete and though they are very firm you don't feel safe. Great exposure and verticality.
Don't lose hope. The difficulty is not too great and if you haven't guts for routes with
pił tiri, you can
ghisarvi sui monotiri. There is also a very easy sector with routes 4° grade. There is more. In the playground at the base of the dam there are some totems built for children and useful for warming up: a gymnasium in the open air.
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Access
Drive to the end of ValGrisanche to the homonymous village. Follow the signs to the sports-ground where the dam stands. If you like you can follow the signs to Bonne, drive across the dam and park on the other side.
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Climate
Exposure: NORTH. 1600 meters on sea level. Nice in summer.
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Rock and Equipment
The equipment is good with 10mm fixes stuck in the concrete. The handholds are all artificial (unfortunately some of them are not firm). 55 m. rappells. Be careful on routes with
pił tiri!!
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Difficulty
Mostly 4° e 6a/6b, gymnasium style
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