By Lorenzo Conserva

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Lanaitto is the synthesis of climbing in Sardinia: a perfect limestone wall out in an isolated and charming valley, an approaching route in contact with nature ... once at the base it seems almost strange to start climbing. And yet the equipment is perfect with nails and chains but the environment so wild and isolated gives us the impression we are violating a secret place ....
After the "gap" at start, climb the first routes and you will soon feel the joy of climbing in the silence on routes of great quality .

Access
From the road between Oriena and Dorgali, about 4 Km. from Oliena, drive to the resort of Su Gologone. Before reaching it, turn left into the valley of Lanaitto. Follow an unpaved road , after some ups and downs, into the valley (very nice): past a quarry on the right, go straight to a crossroads and park your car. Walk up on the right (direction: north-east)across pastures and after about 200 meters climb over a low wall. On the other side of the wall follow a sandy path for about ten minutes, turn right and proceed uphill through stony ground and vegetation till you get to the wall after crossing on the right. You are at the base of the higher sector (not visible from the car) (30 minutes, several stone little men) .

Climate
Exposure: South-East. Ideal in midseasons.

Rock and equipment
Fine grey limestone with drops . The equipment ranges from inox resin nails to old spits on some(only a few)routes. agli spit vecchi su alcune (poche)

Difficulty
From 6a+ al 7b+. Average level: 6c. Some streches are still to be opened.
Technical climbing on slabs and drops.





1 Mente Fresca 6a+  
2 Edonismo Radicale 6b  
3 Dilettanti Veneti 5+ facile placca
4 Pratiche morbose 6b+ placca tecnica
5 Non di solo pane 6a+ placca tecnica
6 Senza nome 7a  
7 Senza nome ?  
8 Polpastrelli a rotelle 6c+ strapiombo iniziale
9 Senza nome 7a strapiombo iniziale, poi placca
10 Il segreto di Pulcinella 7a strapiombo iniziale, poi placca
11 L'albero di Natale 6a, 6b+ fessura di stampo classico
12 Bon Bon per bimbi 6c muro tecnico
13 Non per disamore 7a muro verticale
14 Sempre dritti per Siurana 7b+ muro verticale di dita
15 Dal pianeta Lanaitto 6c placca tecnica
16 Volatili di bassa corte 6b+ placca a gocce magnifica
17 Conigliette di primo pelo 6a+, 6b placca tecnica (monotiro, 6b, 32m!)
18 Senza nome 6b+ muro a tacche, poi placca molto tecnica
19 Senza nome 6b+, 6a+  
20 Il pennino 7a, 7a Tettino fessurato, muro verticale sopra
21 Senza nome ?  
22 Senza nome ?  
23 Souvenir d'Isabelle 7a+, 6b+ Placca a microprese
24 Piccoli uccelletti socievoli 7a  
25 Bombe cristiane su Beirut 6b  
26 La storia del raponzolo 6c+ Placca
27 Il violino di Ingres 6b+  
28 La mogliettina di entrambi 6c+ Fessura strapiombante







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