By Giulio Cavalli

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If you are climbing in Sardinia you cannot miss Goloritzè cove where you can climb up to the Aguglia on a limestone tower facing a cove with cristal waters. It's an enchanted ground.......
Along a fine path get to the base of the tower and once there what you feel like is either diving into the clear waters of the cove or attacking the rock to climb up to the beautiful spire and to the sky ......
The emotion of climbing in this earthly paradise is unique . From above, you can see the small boats floating on a clear sea, so clear that you can see the bottom, some metres underneath, and you even happen to forget you are hanging from a rope .
There is a drawback. The place is so nice that it is often crowded even with people who have never climbed before in their lives. You are likely to stand in a queue at start and to hurry to the top, which is only a square meter large, in a great confusion. Anyway you cannot boast of climbing in Sardinia if you haven't been at Goloritzè cove.....

Access
At Baunei follow the signs to the small church of St. Peter along a very windy road. Just before arriving at the church turn right and follow the signs to Golgo and to Goloritzè cove. From there the road is unpaved, drive to an open space where you can leave your car . Take the comfortable path along the valley to the cove. It takes 1 hour to get there and 1 hour and a half to climb back.

Climate
You can climb any time of the year but avoid windy days .

Rock and Nailing
Limestone. The nailing is mostly good. Along the oldest routes nut and friend are needed..

Difficulty
All routes are to be considered alpine routes. You must be familiar with manouvres and long nailing. Difficulty grade: 6b



  


1 Harry pioggia di sangue ED, obbl. 7a
5c, 7a+, 7a
100m Modern route
2 Il mio veleno ED, obbl.6c
6c, 6c+, 6a+,7a
105m The nicest....
The rock is perfect, the nailing is sometimes long.
3 Spigolo turchese TD, obbl.6b+
6b, 6c
100m Aesthetic..... Equipped with spits
4 Sinfonia dei mulini a vento TD, obbl.6a
6a, 4, 5+, 6b+, 6a, 4
165m Nut and friend are needed. Historical route opened by Gogna. The easiest of the Aguglia.
5 Dolce stil novo TD, obbl.6b
6b+, 6a+
50m Equipped with spits. Nut and friend might be useful.
6 Sole incantatore TD+, obbl.6b
5,6b+,6b,6b+,6c, 3
135m La meglio attrezzata del torrione. Viene usata anche per la discesa in doppia, possibile anche con una corda da 60 metri (consigliate le due mezze)
7 senza nome ED, obbl.6b+
6c, ?
60m  
8 Il soffio del baco TD+, obbl.6b
6b+, 6c+, 6a+, 6b, 6a
160m via moderna, varia e spettacolare
9 L'orsetto lavatore e il suo compare ED+, obbl.6c+
7b+, 7a/A0, 7a, 6c
160m via moderna, molto sostenuta




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