It is located on the divide Luserna-Po and it was opened by Fiorenzo Michelin. Easy to reach with a lot of routes.
Its North-West wall, a solid granitic gneiss, stretches for about 700 m. and it is between 150 and 400 m. high.
The climbing is mostly on slab but there are dihedrals, cracks and several roofs as well. Avoid climbing too early in the morning (it is lit by the sun only from 1 p.m.) and in case you do, be suitably dressed and equipped.
The environment is wild and solitary and you must be a very experienced and skilled climber to climb this wall.
You can receive the mobile phone signal pretty well while approaching the wall but it gets feeble at the base of the wall (better than nothing in case of need).
On the market you can find a very good guide book "
ROCCIA D'AUTORE. 100 ARRAMPICATE SU ROCCIA" by
Fiorenzo Michelin with an account of the routes opened by the author on this wall and on many others.
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Access
It is in the province of Cuneo. You can reach it from Bagnolo Piemonte following the signs to Montoso first and then to the skiing resort of Ruccas. Drive about 1 km. past the skilifts down on the left along an unpaved road to a bend past a pasture. From this point in summer the road is blocked (opened only to cross-country motor vehicles)
Park your car and follow the road to a quarry 1800 m. on sea level(45 minutes). Take a path westbound into the narrow valley to the wall (45 minutes). Along this stretch of the path you can see the blue marks made by Michlin to indicate the right way. Once at the stony base of the wall leave the path leading to the central sector of the wall and turn your steps to the green slopes towards the left sector called by those who first climbed it in 1992
: PLACCHE DELL'AUTAN. This stretch of the path is marked by stone little men.
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Climate
Exposure: North-West
Altitude: 2375 meters on sea-level.
Due to its exposure avoid climbing too early and if you do, be suitably dresed and equipped
.
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Rock and Equipment
The route has completely been equipped from the base with
Inox (fix f10 mm).All the stops have been equipped for the climbing down
.
14 snaphooks are needed. The route has been cleared of weeds, handholds and unsteady stones. Don't forget it is an alpine route and the conditions might change with frost and defrost: always check handholds and footholds.
Take precautions with your equipment as well.
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