By Lorenzo Conserva e Giulio Cavalli

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Back from one of the routes, while you are struggling to take off your climbing shoes, look at the landscape and the nice place where you are and you will at once forget your pains. A fairy wood on one side and a breathtaking view of the lake on the other, frame the wall of Montorfano.
The structure has a rectangular shape and there are three sectors, each of them with its own climbing style. It is good for everybody, for those who like tiring themselves out on overhanging rocks as well as for those who want to spend a day out relaxing with their wife and children on easy plates. There is plenty of room at the base of the walls and you can have a picnic in between your climbs.

Access
Take the road along Lago Maggiore to the railway station in Verbania Fondotoce. Follow the signs to the small village of Montorfano where you can leave your car. Walk along an unpaved road, closed to traffic, into a nice wood crowded with lots of nice little animals. Past the third curve take a path on the right and follow the sign "CLIMB". Not far away you are at the structure.

Climate
The exposure of the three sectors is this:
sector Bambine carine: SOUTH. You can climb all the year round but avoid hot summer days.
sector Strapiombi: EAST.You can climb any time but avoid hot days.
sector Paretone: NORTH-EAST. Very nice in summer, cold and damp in winter.

Rock and Equipment
The rock is a very abrasive hard granite. Watch out, you can easily hurt yourself. Along some routes, mainly where there are overhanging rocks, you can find holds artificially dug. The equipment is very good with 10 mm. spits, along the easiest stretches as well.

Difficulty
The sector Bambine Carine has easy routes, 4th and 5th grade. In the sector Strapiombi the routes are more demanding- 6c/7a, on the Paretone instead the routes are vertical, mostly 6c





Bambine Carine
The routes are not difficult, they are well equipped, mostly on plate.

1 IVa Misura 3b 20m
2 Prima via 4b 20m
3 Bricchetta 5b 20m
4 Insubria 5a 20m
5 Spigolo Forni 4a 20m
6 Depilzero 5a 22m
7 Sgnaps 5b 22m
8 Vomito del bambino 6a+ 30m
9 … e paf! 5a, 6a 30m
10 El pinta 4b 15m
11 Cinghia 5a 15m
12 Tapiro 5b 15m
13 Il gufo 6b, 5b 35m
14 Ginepro 6b, 5b 35m


Strapiombi
The routes are short and call for strenght. Many holds have been dug. Aesthetic movements

15 110 e lode 6c+ 7m
16 No rain 6a+ 7m
17 Pistaaa! 6c+ 8m
18 Juke box all'idrogeno 7a 10m
19 Grande slam 7a+ 12m
20 La danza dello scheletro 6c+ 12m
21 Giù di bioritmo 6b, 5b 12m
22 Diedrino 6a+ 12m
23 Tingri 6c+ 10m
24 Frigorifero 6b+ 10m
25 Commando 7b+ 15m
26 Kobra 8a 10m
27 Magnetika 7c 11m
28 Panoramix 6b+ 11m


Paretone
It's a nice vertical plate which calls for movement and endurance.

29 Lo spigolo 6c+ 25m
30 Macumba club 6c 25m
31 Nitro 7a+ 25m
32 El rubio 6c 25m
33 La notte dei grilli stanchi 6a+ 25m
34 Il diablo di La Paz 6c 25m
35 Adelante .. Adelente 6c+ 25m
36 Banzai 7b 25m
37 China 6a+ 25m
38 Flash back 6c+ 25m





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