by Stefano Codazzi e Andrea Gelfi

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If you visit this site, you'll probably be very well impressed: the environment is delightful in a lonenly little valley. There are five different areas, with different climbing styles. Very good equipment provided by Andrea Gelfi, Mauro Valoti, Alberto Forbiti, Mino Manenti, Stefano Codazzi and others. Even though these good points, Valgua is beeing mostly frequented by local climbers. I suggest you not to miss the next chance. Access From Bergamo take the national road to Valle Seriana and reach Albino. Turn left, following the indications to the cableway (funivia). Pass over the cableway station and go on until you see the via Valgua on your left. Follow this road and stop after a metal bar (little lake). From here follow the path that enters the nice valley, getting to the different areas (good indications, from 10min to 1h). Climate If you choose the right area, you can climb all year long, avoiding cold days in winter. Wet rock after rainy days. Rock & Equipment The rock is a good limestone grey or yellow. Equipment is very good. Difficulty For everybody !! From 5+ to 8b+. Higer areas are harder as well...

Andrea Gelfi on the beautiful wall of Valguasia.

Minolandia It's the first area you encounter: technical slabs and middle-range difficulties. Exposition: South. 1 Senza nome 6a 10m 2 Senza nome 6a+ 10m 3 Qui 6b 13m 4 Quo 5a 10m 5 Qua 5a 10m 6 Valguamania 6a+ 18m 7 Minolo 6a+ 20m 8 Jocker 6b 17m 9 Cocis 6c 26m 10 Flash Gordon 6b 25m 11 Seven People 6a+ 28m 12 La via del Rocket 6a+ 20m 13 Cuore di panna 6b 20m 14 Anaconda 6a+ 23m 15 Donald Duck 5c 20m 16 Rovescio d'occasione 6a+ 20m 17 Boletus edulis 7a 18m 18 Una gita con Roby 6a+ 18m 19 Prendi il fossile 6a 18m
Scoglio(20 min) Beautiful and recent wall: vertical slabs and endurance. The routes in the central section are very interesting. The base is very comfortable. This wall is in the shade in the afternoon, so it's good in the summer. 1 Ventosa 6a+ 14m 2 Lamalalama 6a+ 14m 3 Zagor Trnai 6a+ 20m 4 Batman 6b 20m 5 Flock 6b 20m 6 Otto Grunf 6c 23m 7 Annarita 6b 25m 8 Brendilo di diedro 5+ 22m 9 Ritmi sincopati 6b 25m 10 Scoglio-si 6c+ 28m 11 Tex 6b+ 26m 12 Mezzaluna 6c 27m 13 Ninja 7b 18m 14 Tarta 6a 10m 15 Piani di volo 7b+ 27m 16 Tapina 6a 10m 17 Tapisrulant 7a 27m 18 La Falcata 6c 27m 19 Magia franba 6a, 5+ 56m 20 Via del pane 5+ 25m 21 Super canalona 6b+ 25m
Lentasia (25 min) Large wall. The routes are mainly athletic and endurance once. Exposition South. 1 XXII Giugno 6a+ 16m 2 I punti 5+ 18m 3 Viale Zara 5+ 20m 4 Sono le venti 6a 12m 5 I verduzziani 6a 16m 6 Vecchia gitana 6c 16m 7 Siddharta 6c 20m 8 Gamberetti e champenois 6c 20m 9 Beppe Vigiani 6c+ 20m 10 Kienesthoff NL 20m 11 Niki NL 20m 12 Hoffman 8a 20m 13 Ferragosto 7b+ 20m 14 Giotto A NL 20m 15 Barbera boys 6b+ 16m 16 Anna e Marco NL 20m 17 Pulp fiction NL 20m 18 Missione impossibile NL 15m 19 Black moon 7b+ 15m
Valguasia (35 min) Probably the area with the nicest routes: long technical slabs with high difficulties! Note that we find here the beautiful route "La Perla", a cocktail of technique and strength. The first RP is by Andrea Gelfi, who is still waiting "impatient" for the second one... Isolated and sunny environment. 1 Falange armata 6b 15m 2 The power 7c+ 10m 3 Scorpion 7b 10m 4 Fuga dalla cava 5+,8b 40m 5 Aladin 5+ 18m 6 Verso Venere 7a+ 25m 7 Darkman 7b 25m 8 Perchè NL 30m 9 Gag 6a 10m 10 I maghi 7c 25m 11 La fuga degli argonauti 7a 35m 12 Specchio di sole 7c 30m 13 Pueblos 7b+ 18m 14 Jeronimo 6b+ 12m 15 Anima indiana 7b 28m 16 The boys for the wall NL 18m 17 Velino giallo NL 16m 18 Line of fire 7a+ 20m 19 La perla 8b+ 40m 20 Black & White! 7c 38m 21 Venere plus 7b 34m
Il Fungo(1 h) New sector with hard routes. We still haven't got a detailed description.

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