by Lorenzo Conserva

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From Milan, in clear and shiny days, two mountains are easily noticeable: the Grigna and, on the right, the Resegone, with the particoular shape of a saw. These mountains are so near and accessible that one could think they would be available only for a trekking... Anyway, mountain climbers like Cassin and Bonatti used to train theirselves here before going to the Monte Bianco for some exploit...

The area of Resegone, in particular, offer a great variety of walls and crags (the Bastionata, the Parete Stoppani, Erna, Versasio, the Gran Dalle), that represents one of the most interesting things to see near Lecco. The natural environment is another good element of this area.


Access
To go to the Bastionata you have many choices. We describe the most common:

a) From Lecco follow for Valsassina until the road of the "Funivia dei Piani d'Erna", which has to be taken. Follow all the road and park near the cableway station. Take the path n° 1 to the Rifugio Stoppani. After the Rifugio, go on with the n° 6 up to the Pas del Fo. From here, passing near the base of various walls, you reach the Bastionata, completely exposed to South (1h 45min).

b) From Calolziocorte (between Lecco and Bergamo) reach the village of Erve. Take the path n° 11 up to the Rifugio Monzesi. Then go on left to the Pas del Fo and again, like before, to the base of Bastionata (1h 45min).

c) Take the cableway and from the superior station take the path to the Pas del Fo and again, like before, to the base of Bastionata (45min).

Climate
Exposed completely to South, 1300m high, below you the Pianura Padana... then big sun!!! In winter, with the fog on the Pianura and a high pressure situation, you can have unfogettable climbing days. Anyway it's possible to climb all year long.

Rock & Equipement
The rock is a grey and yellow limestone, generally very good. The equipement is very good (fix + traditional pitons). For the routes with an asterisk it can be useful to have a set of nuts.

Difficulty
From 6a to 7b. Variated climb mainly on technical slabs.





1 Francesca* 6b+, 6b+, 5+ (6a obbl.) 80m
2 Impero* 6a, 6a, 6a+ 90m
3 Malizia 6a, 5, 6a, 6a, 6b+ 140m
4 Nuovi Orizzonti 5+, 5+, 5, 6a, 5+ 140m
5 Riesling 5+, 6a+ 50m
6 Bonatti* 5+, 5+, 5 80m
7 Unione 6c, 6b, 6c, 6c, 6a (6a obbl.) 150m
8 Il faro 6b, 7a, 6a, 7a, 6b (6a+ obbl.) 135m
9 Brontolo 6b 30m
10 Il diedro* 6a 50m
11 Cervello universitario 7a 25m
12 Polvere di stelle 7a, 7a/A2, 7a, 6c 120m
13 Focaccia 6c 25m
14 CAI Lissone 6a/A2 140m
15 Aspettando il sole 6b, 6c, 7a (6a+ obbl.) 70m
16 Star Trek 6a, 7b, 6c 80m
17 Marinando 6a, 6a, 6c, 6a+, 6a 130m
















   

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