by Giulio Cavalli
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This site is not properly a dream one, considering that it is located very near to the town of Valmadrera (industry area). Anyway there are some good points: the distance of the wall from the car is around 30 seconds up to 1 minute for the upper sector. The distance from Milan (North) is half an hour by car. The routes are ideal for training in the 6b-7a range: nice rock and endurance climbing.

The equipement was provided by Delfino Formenti.

Access
From the national 36 Milano-Lecco take the exit of Civate and follow via Bellingera. Go on in the direction of the village Oro (Valmadrera) and, just before a big steep road, park the car. The wall is on your left.

Climate
Exposed to North, this site is very good in the summer.

Rock & Equipement
White solid limestone. The equipement is very good

Difficulty
From 6a to 7a





Settore Principale
The biggest and more interesting area

1 Piri Lini L1:6a L2:6b+ 35 crack and slab
2 Hi-Tech 8a+ 15 fingers...
3 L'attimo fuggente L1:7b L2:6c 37 finger and technical slab
4 Disperazione 6a+ 25 cracks
5 Cipollino 7a 20 endurance
6 Ciao Biba 6c 25 vertical slab, endurance
7 Tira molla 7a 22 difficult roof, then endurance
8 Magilla Gorilla 6c+ 20 roof
9 Bracco Baldo 6b+ 15 not easy to understand
10 Topolino 6b+ 15 single passage
11 Gatto Felix 6c 15 technical slab
12 Euforia 6b+ 22 easy start, then endurance
13 Spit Man 6c 20 fingers
14 Megamostarda 6b 20 technical slab, beautiful
15 Sputo 6a+ 20 endurance
16 Catarro 6a 18 crack and slab
17 Mignolina 5c 10 easy wall
18 Giambolik 6b+ 12 single passages
19 Hyperborea 6c 15 fingers
20 Dr.Dobermann 6a 15 slab and cracks
21 Gorilla Lilla 7a 15 hard single passage (fingers)
22 Capitano Nemo 7a 12 technical
23 Moby Dick 6c 10 slab
24 Trovatella 5c 12 slab
A Putiferio 6c
B A spit e spera 6b+
C Primo maggio 6b+
D Pittura fresca 6a

Settore Torrente
Take the steep road up to the Oro village. The wall is on the other side of the river.

25 La Madonnina 6c 10 overhang
26 Patatin L1:6a+ L2:6c 35 vertical wall
27 Via degli amici L1:6c L2:6b 40 slab and crak
28 Burlin 6c 20 overhanging
29 Via di quei due L1:6b+ L2:6c+ 40 single passage and slab
30 Ornella L1:6b+ L2:6b 30 slab and crack
31 Via delle primule NL 20 fingers!
32 Myriam 6c 20 athletic crack
33 Via dei tetti 6a 25 slab and roof



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