ClimbontheNet - Corna delle Capre

by Giulio Cavalli

This wall, about 100m high, is surrounded by a beautiful environment, quiet and isolated. All the routes are vertical and exposed. The rock is solid, but it's recommendable to wear a helmet if there are other people climbing.

How to get there
Take the highway A4 (Milan-Venice) and exit at Palazzolo. Continue in the direction of Iseo and take the East side of the lake. Reach the village of Marone, where a mountain road on the right leads to Zone. Before entering the village follow a dirt road on the rigt (3,5km), which brings under the red wall (1 hour on foot, 15 minutes by car). From a right turn of the road take a path (n° 230 dell'uccellaio) on the left passing near a country house. After about 200m turn right and follow the path that takes you away from the Corna. Reach three big trees and turn left again. Continue left to the base of the wall, reachable with a short exposed descent (15 minutes from the dirt road)

Climate
The exposizione is South-West, the altitude 1150m. Therefore this site is suggested from March to November.

Rock and Equipement
Beautiful red and yellow limestone, generally vertical and sculptured. The equipement is generally good (spits). The descent is possible only by rappel(25-30m, but 50m is better).

Difficulty
From 6a to 6c. The main climbing style is athletic.

1 - Homo speleus (100m)
max 6b
The start of this route is located at the extreme left of the wall. Not very nice at the beginning, this route terminates with two beautiful sections

2 - Good Rest Moana (100m)
max 6b+
Chiodata a spit. Nice route with excellent rock. It starts on the right of the previous one.

3 - Via Erminio Guerini
max 6a+
Via divertente con roccia ottima. Parte in comune con la via "Good Rest Moana". Si seguono poi i vecchi chiodi anzichè gli spit. (verso destra). La chiodatura è alquanto vetusta ma abbondantissima e sicura. Calate sulla via anche da 25m.

4 - Via Titti e Marena (100m)
L'attacco è situato a destra delle corde fisse. Molto bella. La più frequentata della parete

L1: 5c
L2:6a
L3: 6a+
L4: 6a

5 - Il Figlio del Nepal (100m)
Molto bella, atletica e frequentata.

L1:6a
L2:6b
L3:6a+
L4:6a

6 - Nente caramelle dagli sconosciuti (120m)
Primo tiro in comune con "il figlio del Nepal". Soste molto aeree su cordini. Impossibilità di integrare. Self control.

L1:6a
L2:6c
L3:6c
L4:6b

A destra della struttura precedente sono stati aperti alcuni monotiri per lo più molto impegnativi su roccia strapiombante. La roccia è ottima.

6	Il cuile	6b	20m
7	Danza Anabolica	L1:7a+ L2:7b	45m
8	Buchi arta	L1:7a L2:7b+	45m
9	Pulsatilla	max 6c	45m
10	Pulsatilla plus	8a	20m
11	As piscinas	L1:7a L2:7a+ L3:6b	70m

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