The history of Val Bodengo is very old: a sign of this are all the mountain villages you can find
almost anywhere. A recent road has represented, on a way, an undesired intrusion, on another,
a new resource for the weak economic system of the valley.
Mountain climbing is a recent story here, with two main characters: Cogliato & Noč (60 routes...).
Anyway, today climber, following fashion and common trends come very rarely to climb in the
Val Bodengo, perhaps because of the bad equipement.
The via del Besalesc has been climbed on one of the most unbelievable slabs of the valley, similar
to the ones of the Valle di Mello, definitely a more successful climbing site.
The absence of climbers can give an adventure feeling in a wide sense.
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Access
From Milan go to Lecco-Colico-Chiavenna.
From Gordona, village located just before Chiavenna, take the road to the Val Bodengo
(a ticket is necessary: buy it at the town-hall or at the Ristorante IL CROTT - £. 10.000).
After the houses of Prą Pincič go on until a little chapel near a little river. Park near a bridge
(2-3 km before Bodengo village at the end of asphalted road).
It takes 1h 30min to get to the base and this is hard because there is not a path. You'd better
follow the river until you arrive to some slabs. Then move slightly on the right and take some woods and
steep grass up to a rock wall, to be passed with some zig-zag arriving to an area of stones.
Tranverse on the right a bit descending, arriving to a grassy ledge, where the route starts (big red sign).
It is not so easy and funny to find this wall...
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Climate
The wall is at 1800m, exposed South. It's possible to
climb almost all year long, except from cold days.
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Rock & Equipement
Beautiful granite gneiss.
The route is equipped with distant fix (self-control!!) and 2 fix at the stops (abseiling).
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Gabriele Santambrogio on the Basalesc.
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