ClimbontheNet - Acquafraggia

by Giulio Cavalli

On February 13th I arrived to the Acquafraggia wall with my motor-bike. The temperature was -5°C... Near to a paralysis, I was thinking about everything but climbing. Yet, 15 minutes later, I touched the warm black rock of the wall and started climbing, wearing T-shirt and shorts...

This site is really beautiful for the landscape (woods, falls...), even if sometimes you have to walk in a "jungle" vegetation to get to the base of the routes!
If you prefere short and hard routes, you should stop at Mezzera.

How to get there...
From Lecco (55km north from Milan) take North to Chiavenna. Then drive in the direction of Passo Maloja (Switzerland) up to the little town Borgonovo di Piuro and Savogno. Leave your car just in front of the to big falls.
With various paths you can get to the different climbing areas (15 minutes at most).

Climate
Exposition: SOUTH. Too hot in the summer...

Rock and equipment
The rock is a solid and black porphiry, finely sculptured by the water. The equipment is good (spit).

Difficulty
Between 5 and 6b

Click on the area you want to see

accesso

Left area
Access: follow the Acquafraggia panoramic trail, getting near to the falls, up to the first view-point. Before this one you find the routes on the right (15 minutes)

1	Cadrega	L1:5 L2:5+	30+30	Placed in a very particoular environment, it offers a variated climb...
2	Aspettando il bimbo	5+	15
3	Saxifraga	6a	15
4	Mundulun	6a+	20
5	Forza Guido	6b	30

Central area
Take the panoramic trail, like for the left area. After 5 minutes take a little path on the right and pass under two big rocks (cave). Go on in the jungle with your machete, arriving to the wall (10 minutes).

6	Via delle Mogli	L1:5+ L2:5+ L3:6a+	25+25+35	Nice route, initially athletic, then in cracks and dihedral. You can get down with a 60m rope.
7	Ultimatum	6c+	20	Athletic climb
8	Baghdad	6c	20	crack
9	Bush del cul	7a+	25	Athletic climb
10	Per un pugno di spit	L1:5+ L2:6b L3:6a	15+25+40	Very nice climb. Descent possible with two 50m ropes or by walk from the top of the wall on the left.
11	Italia 90	L1:4+ L2:6a L3:5+ L4:3+	20+20+40+30	Variated climb. Descent possible with two 50m ropes or by walk from the top of the wall on the left.

Right area
Take right the trail to Savogno. After 200m, near a right-turn, take a little path (red arrow). Follow the arrows, then turn left to go to the route n°12; continue right for the other routes.

12	Brasile	L1:6a L2:6a+ L3:6b+ L4:5+ L5:4	40+30+20+40+25	This is probably the nicest route of the Acquafraggia: don't miss it!! Descent possible with two 50m ropes or by walk from the top of the wall on the left (better).
13	Corso Guide svizzere	6a	35	Technical climb
14	Boiler Mon Amour	L1:5 L2:5 L3:5+	20+25+30	Nice and easy. Descent with a 60m rope.
15	Libero per tutti	L1:6b L2:5+ L3:6a+	20+20+25	Nice climb with athletic sections. Descent with a 60m rope.

To see the area of Mezzera

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