"I'm at the beginning of the dihedral. The right side is perfectly vertical, the wall leans to the left side.
In the middle there is a crack, I hope my sheet-anchor. I start in dulfer, and I realize immediately
that the crack is not so good as I thought. I proceed in doing splits, but the rock is more and more smooth
as I go up. After 20 meters there is nothing to take and near the chain, with my last stength, I try
to reach a big hole. Damn! It's smooth! I begin to hate this sandstone! I strengthen much more, and while
I hear the sand under my shoe, at last I reach a good and deep hole. I'm safe.
I look down and I see Giulio sunbathing in full relax, 40 meters under me. The view of the country
is great. Oh my God. This time, we come in an incredible place....."
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Access:
From tha motorway A1, you arrive in Reggio Emilia. You proceed in the direction of La Spezia
(40 km), and reach Castelnuovo ne' Monti. Turn left and follow the indications to Bismantova.
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Climate
Exposition: South. You can climb every time of the year
but the coolest periods.
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Rock and equipment
Rock: sandstone.
Good staff.
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Difficulties
All the difficulties.
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Points of vacation.
Those who love tent can put them freely where they want. The others who prefer
good cooking and conforts can stay in the hut just below the wall, near the parking (tel 0522/611752).
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Long routes
Short routes
Vecchie Gare
Pilone Giallo
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